Selecting Minimalist Footwear [Part 5 - TCFMF]

This post is the fifth part in a series called The Case For Minimal Footwear (TCFMF). To learn more about the series and it's goals as well as find links to the other parts, please see the Introduction page.

Update 03-15-2010: For more information on this topic, check out the blog post Shoes are Tools.

While the first 4 parts of this series have set barefoot as the ideal, it is unrealistic to assume that barefoot is always practical. There are many situations where some form of footwear is required, whether it be for climate (winter), safety (building construction), hygiene (hospital), function (downhill skiing), or fashion (dress code). Assuming barefoot is the best for our health, the goal when selecting footwear should be to choose something that provides as close to barefoot as constraints allow. Two principles that should be taken into consideration are:

• The purpose of footwear should be to protect the body, not correct the body. When I say protect, I mean protect beyond what the body is capable of doing naturally. For example, when working on a job site, steel shanks are required to protect the feet from sharp objects because our feet do not have this natural ability. People often think of cushioning as protective, however as described in part 2, our body already has an excellent natural shock absorption system and therefore we should not be looking to our footwear to provide this.
• Design perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing else to add but when there is nothing else which can be taken away. This principal should be at the forefront when choosing footwear, the goal should be to find the minimum that is required for the given situation. For example, in Maine there are cold winters with lots of deep snow. The requirements for footwear in this environment are protection from the cold, and the prevention of snow of entering through the top. Stiff soles, cushioning, heels, support, etc. do not fulfill those requirements and therefore are considered unnecessary and unwanted.

Keeping those two guiding principles in mind, these are some features to look for:

• Flexible uppers. The uppers should be as light-weight, flexible, and un-restrictive as possible while still meeting the protective requirements. Your feet should not feel confined in any way.
• Roomy uppers. The uppers should provide adequate room for the foot and toes to spread as required for balance and stability. The less flexible the uppers are, the more important the roominess of the uppers become. Again, the goal should be that your feet not feel confined in any way.
• Flat soles. The soles should be as flat as possible so as to not cause you to walk with a heel strike.
• Flexible soles. The soles should be thin and flexible while still meeting the protective requirements. Movement and flexibility of your foot should be natural and unrestricted.
• Breathable. The shoes should be breathable so that the foot stays dry and comfortable. This is very important in cases where your footwear is required to be waterproof.
• Durable. The construction should be of adequate durability for the intended purpose.

There will always be cases where people will be forced to compromise on one or more of the above items. The important things to understand are: what the ideal is, what the compromises are, and how those compromises affect the body.

Knowing what you want in a pair of shoes is one thing, but actually finding it is something else. What follows are some examples of minimalist footwear to get you started:

• Huarache sandals: Huaraches are traditional Mexican sandals originally constructed by the Tarahumara (Raramuri) Indians out of old car tires and strips of leather. Barefoot Ted has plans on his website for building them and sells any of the materials you might need. If you don't want to make them yourself he will custom make them according to a traced outline of your foot.

  

  • Pros: Custom made to the exact size of your foot - available in any size or width. Easy to make, easy to repair. Comfortable. Durable.
  • Cons: Not great in wet or cold conditions. Learning to tie them correctly requires a little time, patience, and practice. Probably wouldn't go over to well in an office environment (I guess that all depends on where you work!).

• Vibram FiveFingers: Vibram - the company most well known for making the soles of boots - invented these about 5 years ago. FiveFingers are a cross between water shoes and gloves for your feet. They have a comfortable stretchy upper attached to a thin, flexible, durable Vibram sole. They come in a variety of styles depending on your activity.

  

  • Pros: Comfortable. Durable. Grippy. Work good in wet conditions. Look cool (depending on your perspective).
  • Cons: Not good in cold conditions. No children's sizes. Some people have problems finding a good fit. These even look stranger than the huaraches - not great for the office either.

• Feelmax shoes: Feelmax footwear is a light-weight shoe with a fabric sole. The sole is made using a proprietary abrasion-resistant material that is very durable and extremely flexible. These are made in Finland and currently only available in Europe, but will be available online in the US by the end of the summer.

  

  I have never tried these, but I will be reviewing a pair shortly and will update this section as I learn more about them. In the meantime, here are a couple of reviews from others that have tried them:

  • barefootrunner.com
  • barefootted.com

  Update (2009-08-14): I recently received two pairs of Feelmax shoes for review. You read about my first impressions of the Niesas here and the Kuuvas here.

• Water shoes: Water shoes can be great as minimalist footwear, depending on the quality and how they fit you. They generally have soft, flexible uppers and thin, flat soles. We like purchasing them for our kids because they aren't too expensive and are readily available (Teva Protons are our current favorite for the kids).

  

  • Pros: Lots of makes and models to choose from. Available most everywhere. Children's sizes available. Work good in wet conditions. Inexpensive.
  • Cons: Not good in cold conditions. Some makes/models not very durable. Some uppers can be tight/restrictive.

• Nike Free shoes: These are running shoes that are advertised as being almost barefoot. I have tried them on in the store on several occasions and didn't consider them much different than a normal running shoe.

  

  • Pros: I am not sure.
  • Cons: Too much cushioning. Elevated heel. Narrow, tight-fitting uppers.

• Vivo Barefoot: These shoes are made by a company called Terra Plana and are designed with a very thin, durable sole and wide flexible upper. The shoes they make are less sporty and more casual, making them a good choice for the office or more formal occasions. I have not had the opportunity to try them yet, so I can't really list the pros or cons. The only con for me so far has been the price, I find them to be on the expensive side. Here are a couple of reviews from others that have tried them:

  

  • barefootrunner.com
  • livingbarefoot.info

• Moccasins: These are typically made of leather and available in a wide variety of styles. Some even have soles and heels (watch out for those!).

  

  • Pros: Some can be custom made to the exact size of your foot. Lots of places to get them. Some models can be very warm for cold weather.
  • Cons: Leather doesn't work well in wet conditions. Custom sizes can be very expensive. Some leathers can be quite stiff. Not good for athletic activities.

• Earth Footwear Kalso-Lite: Earth shoes go a step beyond flat soles and actually have a negative heel, which means that the heel is slightly lower than the forefoot. They claim that it shifts the weight subtly back over the heels helping to strengthen and tone the body while burning more calories. They appear to have quite a bit of cushioning which I think is largely unnecessary. In their favor, they seem to have a wide upper. I have not had the opportunity to try these yet, but will be reviewing a pair shortly and will update this section as I learn more. In the meantime, here is a review from a barefoot perspective:

  

  • barefootrunner.com

• Onisuka Tiger: An Asics brand, Onitsuka Tiger makes retro running shoes, mostly for fashion and not so much for sports (although I played racquetball weekly in a pair for over a year). They have taken Asics designs from earlier days (the 60s etc.) and refreshed the styling for today. The interesting thing about them is that they are very minimalist (as shoes were back then), with thin soles, minimal heels, and flexible uppers. The Tai Chi model is particularly interesting as it is most minimalist model they make.

  

  • Pros: Look like normal running shoes - good for casual/informal use at the office. Fashionable. Thin soles. Minimal heel. Not too expensive.
  • Cons: Leather uppers do stretch, but may be restrictive for wide feet.

• Inov8 (and other racing flats): Some running shoe companies make shoes known as racing flats. These are typically light-weight shoes with minimal cushioning and a very low heel. A company called Inov8 from Europe is particularly well known for this type of shoe, although many other manufacturers make similar models as well.

  

  • Pros: Very light. Flexible uppers. Good grip.
  • Cons: None of them are truly flat, they usually all have some sort of heel. Most have too much cushioning. Many can be narrow and restrictive. Some are so light that they are not very durable.

• Modified running shoes: If you like the fit of a shoe, but don't like the heel or the cushioning, you can try modifying it. I have modified shoes by cutting off the sole and the cushioning and gluing on a new sole. Others have tried something similar, the results usually depend on the construction of the shoe and what you are able to find for sole material.

  

  • Pros: No heel - cut it off! No Cushioning - cut it off! Recycling - breathe new life into old shoes. Inexpensive.
  • Cons: Difficult to find good sole material. Can alter the fit of the shoes. Requires work. Your mileage may vary (YMMV) - success will vary on a wide range of factors.

• Sockwa beach socks: I just recently discovered these. Sockwas are kind of a cross between a sock, shoe, and slipper for the outdoors. They are described as being designed "... to explore shell-filled beaches, spectacular waves, volley-ball games in the sand, puddles after a rain shower, and more". I am very curious about how they might function from a minimalist footwear perspective. My main concern is durability, and how they will hold up to various uses. I will be reviewing them shortly and posting updates to this section as I learn more. I haven't found any other reviews for these as of yet.

  

• Zinetic Pocket Slippers: Another recent discovery, Zinetic pocket slippers are thin, light-weight, packable indoor/outdoor slippers. I have not yet had the opportunity to review them yet (maybe one day!), so I can't really speak say how well the work or how durable they are. Nevertheless, they look interesting and appear to have potential. While I have found some reviews for these, none of them have been from a barefooter's perspective.

  

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I would like to thank the following people for reviewing this post and providing their valuable feedback:

• Renee Tougas (fimby.tougas.net)
• Feelmax (www.feelmax.com)
• Barefoot Ted (www.barefootted.com)