Selecting Minimalist Footwear [Part 5 - TCFMF]
This post is the fifth part in a series called The Case For Minimal Footwear (TCFMF). To learn more about the series and it's goals as well as find links to the other parts, please see the Introduction page.
While the first 4 parts of this series have set barefoot as the ideal, it is unrealistic to assume that barefoot is always practical. There are many situations where some form of footwear is required, whether it be for climate (winter), safety (building construction), hygiene (hospital), function (downhill skiing), or fashion (dress code). Assuming barefoot is the best for our health, the goal when selecting footwear should be to choose something that provides as close to barefoot as constraints allow. Two principles that should be taken into consideration are:
The purpose of footwear should be to protect the body, not correct the body. When I say protect, I mean protect beyond what the body is capable of doing naturally. For example, when working on a job site, steel shanks are required to protect the feet from sharp objects because our feet do not have this natural ability. People often think of cushioning as protective, however as described in part 2, our body already has an excellent natural shock absorption system and therefore we should not be looking to our footwear to provide this.
Design perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing else to add but when there is nothing else which can be taken away. This principal should be at the forefront when choosing footwear, the goal should be to find the minimum that is required for the given situation. For example, in Maine there are cold winters with lots of deep snow. The requirements for footwear in this environment are protection from the cold, and the prevention of snow of entering through the top. Stiff soles, cushioning, heels, support, etc. do not fulfill those requirements and therefore are considered unnecessary and unwanted.
Keeping those two guiding principles in mind, these are some features to look for:
Flexible uppers. The uppers should be as light-weight, flexible, and un-restrictive as possible while still meeting the protective requirements. Your feet should not feel confined in any way.
Roomy uppers. The uppers should provide adequate room for the foot and toes to spread as required for balance and stability. The less flexible the uppers are, the more important the roominess of the uppers become. Again, the goal should be that your feet not feel confined in any way.
Flat soles. The soles should be as flat as possible so as to not cause you to walk with a heel strike.
Flexible soles. The soles should be thin and flexible while still meeting the protective requirements. Movement and flexibility of your foot should be natural and unrestricted.
Breathable. The shoes should be breathable so that the foot stays dry and comfortable. This is very important in cases where your footwear is required to be waterproof.
Durable. The construction should be of adequate durability for the intended purpose.
There will always be cases where people will be forced to compromise on one or more of the above items. The important things to understand are: what the ideal is, what the compromises are, and how those compromises affect the body.
Knowing what you want in a pair of shoes is one thing, but actually finding it is something else. What follows are some examples of minimalist footwear to get you started:
Huarache sandals: Huaraches are traditional Mexican sandals originally constructed by the Tarahumara (Raramuri) Indians out of old car tires and strips of leather. Barefoot Ted has plans on his website for building them and sells any of the materials you might need. If you don't want to make them yourself he will custom make them according to a traced outline of your foot.

Pros: Custom made to the exact size of your foot - available in any size or width. Easy to make, easy to repair. Comfortable. Durable.
Cons: Not great in wet or cold conditions. Learning to tie them correctly requires a little time, patience, and practice. Probably wouldn't go over to well in an office environment (I guess that all depends on where you work!).
Vibram FiveFingers: Vibram - the company most well known for making the soles of boots - invented these about 5 years ago. FiveFingers are a cross between water shoes and gloves for your feet. They have a comfortable stretchy upper attached to a thin, flexible, durable Vibram sole. They come in a variety of styles depending on your activity.

Pros: Comfortable. Durable. Grippy. Work good in wet conditions. Look cool (depending on your perspective).
Cons: Not good in cold conditions. No children's sizes. Some people have problems finding a good fit. These even look stranger than the huaraches - not great for the office either.
Feelmax shoes: Feelmax footwear is a light-weight shoe with a fabric sole. The sole is made using a proprietary abrasion-resistant material that is very durable and extremely flexible. These are made in Finland and currently only available in Europe, but will be available online in the US by the end of the summer. I have never tried these, but I will be reviewing a pair shortly and will update this section as I learn more about them. In the meantime, here are a couple of reviews from others that have tried them:
Water shoes: Water shoes can be great as minimalist footwear, depending on the quality and how they fit you. They generally have soft, flexible uppers and thin, flat soles. We like purchasing them for our kids because they aren't too expensive and are readily available (Teva Protons are our current favorite for the kids).

Pros: Lots of makes and models to choose from. Available most everywhere. Children's sizes available. Work good in wet conditions. Inexpensive.
Cons: Not good in cold conditions. Some makes/models not very durable. Some uppers can be tight/restrictive.
Nike Free shoes: These are running shoes that are advertised as being almost barefoot. I have tried them on in the store on several occasions and didn't consider them much different than a normal running shoe.

Pros: I am not sure.
Cons: Too much cushioning. Elevated heel. Narrow, tight-fitting uppers.
Vivo Barefoot: These shoes are made by a company called Terra Plana and are designed with a very thin, durable sole and wide flexible upper. The shoes they make are less sporty and more casual, making them a good choice for the office or more formal occasions. I have not had the opportunity to try them yet, so I can't really list the pros or cons. The only con for me so far has been the price, I find them to be on the expensive side. Here are a couple of reviews from others that have tried them:
Moccasins: These are typically made of leather and available in a wide variety of styles. Some even have soles and heels (watch out for those!).

Pros: Some can be custom made to the exact size of your foot. Lots of places to get them. Some models can be very warm for cold weather.
Cons: Leather doesn't work well in wet conditions. Custom sizes can be very expensive. Some leathers can be quite stiff. Not good for athletic activities.
Earth Footwear Kalso-Lite: Earth shoes go a step beyond flat soles and actually have a negative heel, which means that the heel is slightly lower than the forefoot. They claim that it shifts the weight subtly back over the heels helping to strengthen and tone the body while burning more calories. They appear to have quite a bit of cushioning which I think is largely unnecessary. In their favor, they seem to have a wide upper. I have not had the opportunity to try these yet, but will be reviewing a pair shortly and will update this section as I learn more. In the meantime, here is a review from a barefoot perspective:
Onisuka Tiger: An Asics brand, Onitsuka Tiger makes retro running shoes, mostly for fashion and not so much for sports (although I played racquetball weekly in a pair for over a year). They have taken Asics designs from earlier days (the 60s etc.) and refreshed the styling for today. The interesting thing about them is that they are very minimalist (as shoes were back then), with thin soles, minimal heels, and flexible uppers. The Tai Chi model is particularly interesting as it is most minimalist model they make.

Pros: Look like normal running shoes - good for casual/informal use at the office. Fashionable. Thin soles. Minimal heel. Not too expensive.
Cons: Leather uppers do stretch, but may be restrictive for wide feet.
Inov8 (and other racing flats): Some running shoe companies make shoes known as racing flats. These are typically light-weight shoes with minimal cushioning and a very low heel. A company called Inov8 from Europe is particularly well known for this type of shoe, although many other manufacturers make similar models as well.

Pros: Very light. Flexible uppers. Good grip.
Cons: None of them are truly flat, they usually all have some sort of heel. Most have too much cushioning. Many can be narrow and restrictive. Some are so light that they are not very durable.
Modified running shoes: If you like the fit of a shoe, but don't like the heel or the cushioning, you can try modifying it. I have modified shoes by cutting off the sole and the cushioning and gluing on a new sole. Others have tried something similar, the results usually depend on the construction of the shoe and what you are able to find for sole material.

Pros: No heel - cut it off! No Cushioning - cut it off! Recycling - breathe new life into old shoes. Inexpensive.
Cons: Difficult to find good sole material. Can alter the fit of the shoes. Requires work. Your mileage may vary (YMMV) - success will vary on a wide range of factors.
Sockwa beach socks: I just recently discovered these. Sockwas are kind of a cross between a sock, shoe, and slipper for the outdoors. They are described as being designed "... to explore shell-filled beaches, spectacular waves, volley-ball games in the sand, puddles after a rain shower, and more". I am very curious about how they might function from a minimalist footwear perspective. My main concern is durability, and how they will hold up to various uses. I will be reviewing them shortly and posting updates to this section as I learn more. I haven't found any other reviews for these as of yet.

Zinetic Pocket Slippers: Another recent discovery, Zinetic pocket slippers are thin, light-weight, packable indoor/outdoor slippers. I have not yet had the opportunity to review them yet (maybe one day!), so I can't really speak say how well the work or how durable they are. Nevertheless, they look interesting and appear to have potential. While I have found some reviews for these, none of them have been from a barefooter's perspective.

Update (2009-08-14): I recently received two pairs of Feelmax shoes for review. You read about my first impressions of the Niesas here and the Kuuvas here.



I would like to thank the following people for reviewing this post and providing their valuable feedback:
- Renee Tougas (fimby.tougas.net)
- Feelmax (www.feelmax.com)
- Barefoot Ted (www.barefootted.com)

Comments
Thanks as always Damien. You may be aware already, but I'm on IE8 and some of the images aren't coming through.
Otherwise, excellent post. Thank you for doing all of the research.
Thanks for the encouraging words!
If anyone else out there is having problems, please let me know.
Very thorough post, Damien. I really enjoyed reading it.
I'm extremely interested in the Teva Protons now, I'd never seen them before.
I've been pining for a barefoot alternative for the winter. The closest I've come to something suitable is Vivo Barefoot Dundan boots, which are not on sale again until the fall. Maybe with all this interest in the barefoot alternative, other shoe companies will introduce barefoot alternative models for when it's not suitable to be completely barefoot.
(P.S. If there are supposed to be images for all the models, the huaraches, Tevas, Nike Frees, Earth Shoes, Asics, and New Balance images didn't work in my Firefox browser.)
I have fixed the image problem, let me know if you still see problems.
I am in agreement with you, winter/spring/snowy/wet/cold conditions are largely untapped territory when it comes to minimalist/barefoot footwear. I have a LOT of ideas in this regard and would love to have the opportunity to work with a company in designing something in this regard. In the meantime, here are a few ideas you can try:
- Steger Mukluks (http://www.mukluks.com/) have some VERY warm models. I have never tried them (yet), so I don't know how "minimalist" they are. The biggest downside from my perspective is that they are made of leather, which doesn't really work well when it gets wet.
- NEOS overshoes (http://www.overshoe.com/), especially the uninsulated ones, have pretty thin, flat soles. They are relatively light and completely waterproof. You can wear whatever you like underneath. The downsides are that they are a little bulky, and can get hot because they don't breathe.
I am also experimenting with some different combinations of light-weight footwear coupled with thick socks, gore-tex liner socks, and gaiters. As I figure out combinations that work, I will be blogging the results so stay tuned!
Good stuff per usual.
I am going to be sending a LOT of folks to this entire series of posts because I think they are very well done.
Great job Damien.
BFT
Thanks for the encouraging words, it has been a LOT of work for me, I am looking forward to being done the series soon!
I jumped in with both feet today - wearing Classic Five Fingers to run a 5 km race. I've worn them this past week around the house, ran in them for 1 km on the 'paved' circle we live on and thought why not give them a try today at the race. It was a paved route, but I ran on the the shale-like shoulder when possible. My left heel felt a bit tender after the race - not sure if that's from stepping on a rock or because of old habits of heel-striking. This race is a favorite in Nova Scotia - today, a record field of over 600 runners! I had lots of people looking at them (from a distance) and at least 20 runners came up and asked me about them - I recommended your website to a few, as I am still learning about minimalist footwear. Today's experience was definitely positive - thanks again for your encouragement to help me on this trail! Oh yeah, I must add, I had an awesome race too - think it was a PB but have to go back and check my stats! If it was strictly the shoes..I'd be buying stocks in the company :)
Wow, you really did jump in with both feet! And a PB too! Good for you! Are you feeling it today? I would imagine that using a few new muscles would have resulted in some sort of soreness or stiffness somewhere. I very interested in following your progress to see how things go for you!
I can feel some soreness along the back edge of my heels, nothing bad. My calves are pretty tender - probably from the different foot-striking action; might also be due to the fact we cycled to the race, 25 kms, and after, biked another 75 kms. We're training for our 7-day, 800km bike tour this summer so fitting in the cycling distance wherever we can.
I've only just discovered this concept and haven't even finished reading your series, so this might not be right, but I wanted to throw in my favorite pair of shoes. I cannot remember the brand right now, but they're wool felt. Wide, roomy, flexible, flat, and breathable. If anything the sole might be too cushioned, but with my current plantar fasciitis (wondering if going barefoot would help that?) they're the only shoes that don't hurt and have actually helped. Bonus, they're good for winter :) The only durability issue is I've worn holes in the tops from my toenails! But that is easily fixed :)
I would love to know what brand you are referring to. I did a quick Internet search but didn't turn up much that looked minimalist. I am interested in knowing more about these.
I'm reading your blog at the request of a family member who is interested in your idea. I am an orthopedic surgery resident and have an interest in the foot and ankle field. I am not in complete agreement with your conclusions thus far, and will comment further in the future. I did want to mention at this point however that a company called "Flexible Footwear" makes a great negative heel counter shoe with wonderful flexible sole that allows you to strength your intrinsic foot muscles while protecting you from the elements. I wear them in the hospital and during long operations. You can get some information from their website at www.flexiblefootwear.com. Just a suggestion.
Thanks for the link. I hadn't heard of Flexible Footwear before, I will definitely check them out. A brief search online does not turn up much in the way of resellers. Do they have to be ordered specially?
I tried out a shoe from flexiblefootwear at one of the trade shows. Wow! I was really impressed. The first new shoe I have ever put on that was instantly comfortable. They are special order only.
if you read a bunch of Feelmax reviews, they all have similar issues with durability and water resistance, but one that stands out is Barefoot Ted's review. he says the pair he got from Feelmax to test work great in both those areas.
i've been emailing Feelmax and have found out that BFT's shoes work great because they're the new "Niesa" model that have an updated bottom sole to address these issues. it sounds like Miia is saying all the Niesa models on Feelmax's webstore have this new sole now and other models will have it soon. as soon as i confirm this, i'm immediately buying a pair. they seem like the best combo of style (acceptable at work) and performance. besides, BFT loves them :)
I'm surprised the ubiquitous Converse All Stars aren’t included in your comparison - I wear them for running and training and find they provide reasonable sole protection without adjusting the foot position.
Thanks for the list and descriptions. I've been wearing VFF's for almost two years, but it wo9uld be nice to wear something a little less obvious.
Another shoe option that you could add is Gurkee Sandals. They are a rope sandal that is very light weight and has a completely flat and flexible sole. Check them out at http://gurkees.com/
I have used the Neptune model for a couple of years now and use it to go into stores.
They float and are machine washable.
Great article!
David Henry
Hello David,
I had not hear of Gurkees before, thanks for bringing them to my attention, I will have to check them out some time. Looks like they might work well for camping too.
Thanks for this list. It's the best, most comprehensive list I've seen. I want to check out the last 2 items on your list. These look like interesting alternatives.
In terms of water shoes and cold, I've had no issues running in my Speedo Aquasocks in below zero temps. I do where them with socks in the Winter, and use them for running, which might be different than other activities.
I have plans (somewhat loose at this point) to create a minimalist shoe directory where people can submit, rate, and review the various makes and models. It is still in the planning/dreaming phase, but hopefully something will materialize.
Great post! I agree on pretty much everything! Just so you know, I am consulting for a new shoe company (ProZero) that will be making shoes next year that will have all the design components you mentioned: Flexible, Breathable, Roomy Uppers, Zero Drop (Flat) Soles, Flexible, non-cushioned soles, and durable to boot!
I am always interested to know more about new and upcoming minimal footwear products. If/when they are looking for testers and feedback, I would love to be able to help out.
I've read this comparative review with great interest, Damien, thank you for writing it. If you have the opportunity, you could also try the original Feiyue shoes: they're martial arts shoes, originally, but I've used them for running too. The sole is on the thin side, slightly rounded, and cut in stripes so to be really flexible. They've been designed for "kung-fu" (wushu), as I was saying, so for kicks, jumps, and other motions that require that you keep control of your feet, rather than surrender it to your footwear. They won't win a beauty contest, they won't last you years, but they're easy to slip on and off (while still being secure on your feet), and a pair is really cheap -- $15 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Claw-Feiyue-Martial-Shoes/dp/B000DN7XU4/ref=...
Hello Pierre-Alexandre, welcome!
I have seen those Feiyue shoes before, and I have been very interested in trying them out. In fact, there are many different pairs of shoes that I wish I could try some day. My problem is that there are too many different models, and I don't have enough money to invest in testing them all (I wish I could!). Granted these ones are inexpensive, so maybe one day!
Maybe I should create a fund on my website where people can donate money for me to buy and test different shoes. Then again, maybe that would be not a good idea... what do you think?
Why not a PayPal button? They're unobtrusive and, personally, while I don't like being forced into donations, I do like being given the opportunity to say "thank you" with my money. From time to time, I give $6 (so that there's more than $5 left after the PayPal tax) for a website or freeware I found useful, or for a webcomic I enjoy. And some people must be more generous than me, or there wouldn't be any webcomic artist making a living out of their work!
Just four people making a $5 donation would pay for the Feiyue shoes, shipping included.
I have been running in feiyues, (wushu shoes) for a few months and like them very much and until i find something better will buy more. They cost 16.00 ds.
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